Friday, July 18, 2014

12 Lava Tower Camp to Arrow Glacier

15,230 to 15,980
Today was kind of a hard day for me, mainly because I didn't drink enough water, and then I didn't take my fleece on our acclimitization hike and got chilled, two mistakes.  Other than that, it was an easy day.  It is really really windy again in the afternoon the windiest we've seen.  Lucky for us, we're all holed up in our tents.  It's pretty crazy, but the guys are sewing zippers, repositioning guy ropes, and scrambling to do everything that needs to be done so we don't blow away. The morning was gorgeous with clouds passing by all day.  The clouds make the views breathtaking as they change minute by minute.








Gonzo

Fredrick











The porters set up your tent, get your duffle out and set your shoes at the door.  










Outside on the Porter tents.


11 Moir Camp to Lava Tower Camp

We passed through the alpine moorland zone where plants are extremely hardy and consist of lichens, grasses and heather to the Alpine Desert Zone.   We hiked for about four hours today, the guides are very good at estimating how long it will take to get from one camp to the next.  The effects of altitude are now very apparant.  When the clouds pass through it is chilling, and when the sun is overhead, it is baking hot.  Back and forth all day long.  I went from taking three sips at a time from my hydration system to taking two sips at a time.  Less energy!  John had a headache and tiredness, much of the afternoon.  I couldn't sit still because of adrenaline.  Today we both hiked higher than we've ever been.  The highest I had been was Longs Peak, and John's was Mt. Whitney.  It's very dry and more stunning than I ever imagined.
13,600 to 15,230 ft.
We're supposed to have 3-5 liters each day.  I usually have 4.  John is getting better!!!





Eligi, our assistant guide.  His pace is pole pole.  He is 63 and statprted as a porter when he was 15.  Now you need to be 18 in order to be a porter.  When he gets down off the mountain, he takes care of his 96 year old mother!

Every morning and afternoon when we return from walking, we get a basin of hot water.

Robson and Gonzo in the kitchen.

Our very capable kitchen helpers.

The stove which was very warm when I stopped in to visit!

See the butternut squash?  We had them for dinner tonight.

The dishwashing area.

John went on the acclimization hike this afternoon and took this picture of our camp on the way down.  I stayed around and aired out my dang blisters.

I counted 13 ravens around our camp this afternoon.  They're bigger than Wyoming ravens.









10 Shira Two to Moir Camp

Today was an easy less than three hour hike going from 12,750 to 13,600 feet.  We walked through the High Alpine desert zone.  The group decided last night to not have a layover day at Lava Tower and instead hike to Moir Camp. This is a little used camp, a bit out of our way, but has the advantage of slowing our ascent and giving us more time time acclimitize.  It feels great to be the only group at a camp.  The winds have been gusting all day, maybe to the 30's, and the dust is blowing, which is a great reason to hole up in the tent.  John went on the extra hike and I stayed back to give my now three blisters a well deserved break.  The acclimatization hike is where you hike up several hundred feet above the camp and turn around and go back.  It's believed to help with acclimatization to hike high and sleep low.








Porters greet us when we come into camp by singing and dancing.  The first night it happened, at Shira 1, I was really moved, not expecting it.  My porter, Robson,welcomes me by taking my daypack and setting it next to our tent.  Porters are very special and amazing people, who carry loads of 50 plus pounds, set up camp, cook, filter water, serve as waiters, and always want to make sure everything is good for you.  We were each allowed 16 kilograms, but then they have to carry their stuff in addition.  It sounds like they have a pretty good time at night after the work is done, laughing and carrying on in the porters tents eating popcorn.

Looking down into the Moir Camp as we approached.


Breakfast, lunch, dinner, and afternoon tea (usually with popcorn) in the Cabella's mess tent

9 Shira 1 to Shira 2 Camp



We walked 5.3 miles from 11,420 to 12,750 feet.  The Shira Plateau was the site of the first volcano in this area.  It collapsed and formed the caldera that we walked across today.  It was an easy walk through the heather with giant lobelias and senecios towards the mountain. So far, I am so thankful for the steroid injection Dr. Jachimiak put in my right foot second metatarsal, no pain what so ever.  About two days after returning from Africa I need to have a plantar plate repair done, no time before.  I do have a blister on each heel, but they're minor.  My Oxygen saturation levels have been in the 90's, and heart rate has probably averaged 80, so I think that's good.  John's are good too. We have our vitals taken once in the morning and once in the evening. I asked Honest about what happens when the oxygen sats and HR gets too low, and basically he told me that if he recommends somebody turn around and they don't want to, they need to sign a special piece of paper.

Walking through the heather zone.







Shira Cathedral.  Reminded me a little of the pinnacles on Togwotee.

Gonzo, the water pumper and John's porter.

Our tent was looking out over Shira Cathedral. The landscapes are far more beautiful than I anticipated!




Checking for reception to learn if the twins were early.  No reception.


Pea Soup.

Hoarfrost in the AM at Shira Two.

8 Big Tree Camp to Shira 1 Camp


Our first big day of hiking took us from the montane forest, through the transition zone, and into the heath zone where old lava flows are visible to the beginning of the Shira Plateau.  We climbed from 8700 to 11,420 over 4.7 miles.  It was my favorite kind of hiking, straight up and slow, pole pole.  The trail was well maintained until after our lunch stop when it became a typical trail.  It was hot and sunny most of the day.  We left Big Tree Camp at about 8:00 and arrived at our lunch on a pass at about 11:30.  The porters started after us, passed us on the trail, got to the lunch stop in time to set up our mess tent & bathroom, and prepared lunch which was waiting when we arrived.  After lunch we climbed the remaining elevation to our first full view of Kili, at the Shira 1 campsite.  The trail followed a ridge to the plateau.

Our group along with Augustine, Honest and Eligi, the three guides.


Handsome Honest, our lead guide.


John signing in, which is what you have to do at every campsite.

Michelle and Eligi.



Shira One Camp.


Shira One Campsite was our first view of Kili. It reminded me a little of Elk Mountain!