No Man's Land and Tire Changing

We left early to go to Victoria Falls. A $10 taxi ride from downtown Livingstone takes you to the Zambian/Zimbabwean border. When we were almost there, our cab driver stopped on the side of the road and changed a perfectly good right rear tire with an also functioning spare. We're still wondering what that was all about and we won't ever know. The border between the two countries is the Zambezi River. Victorious Falls is on the Zambezi River. No Man's land extends both sides of the river for about a half kilometer, also known as ZimZam according to a very friendly young man on the bridge. He was also proud to recite the names of US presidents; Mr. Obama, Nixon, Ford, Papa Bush and Lincoln. No Man's land is full of touts who aggressively persue every white tourist with endless goods and services. They walk beside you talking steadily from border to border. I resisted in the morning but bought a copper bracelet and Zambezi River God necklace in the afternoon. We viewed the falls from both sides. Zimbabwe's side has the best views, is more expensive and aggressively pushes rain jackets and guides. It's more relaxed in Zambia and the sunset views are magnificent. I scored a great pair of used shoes from a croc type shoe/raincoat rental stand. I'd been wishing I had my crocs from home so it was very exciting. Unfortunately we didn't haul FCSD#1 along so will post pictures in a couple of weeks. The falls are absolutely stunning in length and complexity. They are a series of dozens of falls and the name given to them by the local people, Smoke that Thunders or Mosi oa Tunya, really is the best description. Lunch was at the Victoria Falls Hotel, one of the classic colonial hotels of old Africa. If you want a visit to Africa of the past, this is the place. White hunters were at a table next to us. I wanted to hang out in the bathroom for a while because there were tissues, TP, hand soap and body lotion. In my survey of women's bathroom in Africa, this was the best and Olduvai Gorge was the worst! Research is continuing however. :)